Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
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14th century

Cappa leonis exhibited in the Aachener Domschatz
14th century

The Cappa Leonis: Needlelace from the 14th century?

In today’s blog, we will examine the so-called Cappa leonis held in the Cathedral Treasury of Aachen, Germany. A perfect example of more is more. It was likely used as the coronation mantle for Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor, crowned in AD 1349 in Aachen and Charles V, Holy Roman Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 4 monthsJune 9, 2026 ago
Medieval Embroidery Pattern - colourful geometric pattern
14th century

Medieval Embroidery Pattern: early 14th Century alms purse

Today, I am sharing a free medieval embroidery pattern with you. Late last year, I visited the Treasury of the basilica of St Servatius in Maastricht, the Netherlands. Among the display cases with medieval textiles sat this very damaged alms purse. Colours faded and threads fallen out. When I studied Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 5 monthsMay 27, 2026 ago
Opus ciprense - A large embroidered antependium in a museum display case
14th century

Opus ciprense: the 14th century antependium in Pisa

The Cathedral Museum of Pisa, Italy, holds an Opus ciprense embroidery in the form of a large antependium. We’ve already visited this museum to study the cope of Gelasius II. What makes this 14th-century antependium so special is that it is one of only three pieces of surviving Opus ciprense: Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 5 monthsMay 18, 2026 ago
Italian embroidery - A large red cope laying flat in a museum display case.
14th century

14th-century Italian Embroidery: the cope of Gelasius II

The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo di Pisa exhibits a magnificent piece of 14th-century Italian embroidery. It is known as the cope of Gelasius II, who was pope from AD 1118 to 1119 and consecrated the Pisa Cathedral. As you can tell from the dates, a 12th-century pope cannot wear a Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 6 monthsApril 20, 2026 ago
Embroidery techniques - a cope hood with the Noli me tangere scene
14th century

Embroidery techniques through time – Noli me tangere

Let’s trace changes in embroidery techniques from the 14th to the 16th century by examining a popular biblical story. The scene of Noli me tangere (touch me not), in which Mary Magdalene visits the grave and finds it empty, is one of my favourite biblical scenes rendered in medieval embroidery. Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 7 monthsApril 7, 2026 ago
Embroidery tutorial sample
14th century

Medieval Embroidery Tutorial: Diaper pattern couching

Today’s embroidery tutorial was inspired by the tablecloth of the Last Supper in a 14th-century Italian embroidery. By couching down a pair of twisted cream silk threads with a thin, untwisted cream silk thread, it looks as if the tablecloth is made of damask. This is a clever way to Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 7 monthsMarch 31, 2026 ago
Opus florentinum - Orphrey fragment, Musée de Cluny, Cl. 12377
14th century

Opus florentinum: a puzzling orphrey fragment

In my current exploration of Opus florentinum goldwork embroidery, I came across an orphrey fragment that puzzles me. Firstly, what does it depict? Is this the Lamentation of Christ as the museum caption suggests? Or is this the Entombment of Christ? And why is the embroidery executed the way it Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 7 monthsMarch 23, 2026 ago
Opus florentinum - embroidered scene of Christ carrying the Cross
14th century

Opus florentinum: the embroidered Antependium in Lyon

Opus florentinum is a style of embroidery that is characterised by the use of split stitch and surface couched gold thread. It flourished in the 14th and 15th centuries, and its products could and can be found in church treasuries all over Europe. Just like Opus anglicanum, Opus florentinum has Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 8 monthsMarch 2, 2026 ago
Alms Pouches - Fragments of an embroidered medieval alms pouch.
14th century

Alms pouches from 14th century Paris and France

The Musée de Cluny presented a lovely collection of embroidered alms pouches from the 14th century in its 2019/2020 exhibition. Some were definitely made in Paris; others were made in cities elsewhere in France known for their embroidery workshops, such as Toulouse, Lyon, and Tours. Although the names under the Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 8 monthsFebruary 23, 2026 ago
Jean le Noir - Embroidered mitre on display in the museum.
14th century

Jean le Noir and the tale of the two embroidered Mitres

A beautiful mitre attributed to Jean le Noir (and his daughter Bourgot) was exhibited at the Musée de Cluny in 2020. When I walked into the Museu Episcopal the Vic many years later, I saw a similar mitre on display. Looking both mitres up in the literature, confirmed that art Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 8 monthsFebruary 16, 2026 ago

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Medieval Splendour in Gold thread & Silk

The Acupictrix, alias Dr Jessica Grimm, writes a weekly blog on medieval goldwork embroidery.

Dr Jessica Grimm is a member of Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Ancienes (CIETA), Bundesverband Kunsthandwerk and S.E.W.

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