Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
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Musée de Cluny

Opus florentinum - Orphrey fragment, Musée de Cluny, Cl. 12377
14th century

Opus florentinum: a puzzling orphrey fragment

In my current exploration of Opus florentinum goldwork embroidery, I came across an orphrey fragment that puzzles me. Firstly, what does it depict? Is this the Lamentation of Christ as the museum caption suggests? Or is this the Entombment of Christ? And why is the embroidery executed the way it Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 8 monthsMarch 23, 2026 ago
Alms Pouches - Fragments of an embroidered medieval alms pouch.
14th century

Alms pouches from 14th century Paris and France

The Musée de Cluny presented a lovely collection of embroidered alms pouches from the 14th century in its 2019/2020 exhibition. Some were definitely made in Paris; others were made in cities elsewhere in France known for their embroidery workshops, such as Toulouse, Lyon, and Tours. Although the names under the Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 9 monthsFebruary 23, 2026 ago
Jean le Noir - Embroidered mitre on display in the museum.
14th century

Jean le Noir and the tale of the two embroidered Mitres

A beautiful mitre attributed to Jean le Noir (and his daughter Bourgot) was exhibited at the Musée de Cluny in 2020. When I walked into the Museu Episcopal the Vic many years later, I saw a similar mitre on display. Looking both mitres up in the literature, confirmed that art Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 9 monthsFebruary 16, 2026 ago
Pearl Embroidery - an embroidered white mitre on display at the museum.
14th century

The mitre of Sainte Chapelle: What stitch is it?

Identifying an embroidery stitch correctly on a historic piece is not always easy. As inspecting the back for correct identification is often necessary, historic embroideries can be challenging. Either the back cannot be checked due to a lining or is displayed, so it is inaccessible. The solution? Make embroidery samples Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsJanuary 27, 2025 ago
Pearl Embroidery - an embroidered white mitre on display at the museum.
14th century

Pearl Embroidery: the Mitre of Sainte-Chapelle, Paris

Last week, we looked at the mitre of St Isidoro, with beautiful pearl embroidery, dating to the second quarter of the 14th century. Today’s mitre with pearl embroidery is slightly younger, dating to the last quarter of the 14th century, and was likely made in Paris. It was once housed Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsJanuary 13, 2025 ago

Medieval Splendour in Gold thread & Silk

The Acupictrix, alias Dr Jessica Grimm, writes a weekly blog on medieval goldwork embroidery.

Dr Jessica Grimm is a member of Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Ancienes (CIETA), Bundesverband Kunsthandwerk and S.E.W.

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