Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
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Technique

Medieval stumpwork chasuble cross, around AD 1500, Domschatzmuseum Chur.
16th century

Medieval Stumpwork: a chasuble cross @ Domschatzmuseum Chur

Last year, whilst on my way to visit my friend Sister M. Chiara, I stumbled upon some lovely medieval stumpwork at the Domschatzmuseum in Chur, Switzerland. Until then, I had no idea that these pieces existed. Late medieval stumpwork is a lot less rare than most people think. However, as Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 yearOctober 6, 2025 ago
Order of the Golden Fleece – Mary Cope (Saint Apollonia), Imperial Treasury Vienna, Inv. Nr. KK 21.
15th century

Order of the Golden Fleece: the embroidered copes

Two weeks ago, I introduced you to the embroidered vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece. Last week, we studied the iconography and the embroidery techniques on the two antependia. This week, we will have a look at the three copes that the priest, the deacon and the subdeacon Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 yearSeptember 15, 2025 ago
Order of the Golden Fleece – detail of John the Baptist on the embroidered antependium (frontal)
15th century

Order of the Golden Fleece: the antependia

Last week, I introduced you to the literature available on the vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece. This week, we will have a look at what is believed to be the oldest part of the collection: the antependia. The Imperial Treasury in Vienna houses the part that covered Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 yearSeptember 9, 2025 ago
Order of the Golden Fleece – Detail with Attala on the Mary cope
15th century

Order of the Golden Fleece: the embroidered vestments

In the coming weeks, we will explore the magnificent embroidered vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece. These vestments are kept in Vienna, Austria, at the Weltliche Schatzkammer of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, also known as the Imperial Treasury. If there were such a thing as the UNESCO World Heritage Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 yearSeptember 1, 2025 ago
Embroidery Tutorial - partly finished sample of a female embroidered head
15th century

Medieval Embroidery Tutorial: Fancy Franconian Face

In this medieval embroidery tutorial, I will show you how to recreate the lovely female face with the big braids as seen on this 15th-century chasuble. You will practice silk embroidery, padding and beading when recreating this lovely beaded stumpwork portrait of a female saint. Whilst working the medieval embroidery Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsApril 29, 2025 ago
Medieval Goldwork - multi coloured embroidery of three figures.
15th century

Medieval Goldwork Embroidery from Franconia, part I

Today, I am going to introduce you to a body of medieval goldwork spread across several museums. Two pieces are still housed in the cathedrals where they were used. The third piece is, or was, part of the Keir collection. Its current whereabouts are unknown. I first came across this Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsApril 14, 2025 ago
Needlepoint vestments - Needlepoint vestments, Museo d’Arte Sacra San Gimignano.
18th century

Needlepoint Vestments from the 18th-20th century

Although my interest is primarily medieval goldwork, I have encountered a lot of younger embroidery in my research. Some of it is rather fun, like the needlepoint vestments seen in the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. Geometric, floral and figural scenes are worked on canvas with cross-stitches, tent stitches, and Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsMarch 30, 2025 ago
Pearl Embroidery - an embroidered white mitre on display at the museum.
14th century

The mitre of Sainte Chapelle: What stitch is it?

Identifying an embroidery stitch correctly on a historic piece is not always easy. As inspecting the back for correct identification is often necessary, historic embroideries can be challenging. Either the back cannot be checked due to a lining or is displayed, so it is inaccessible. The solution? Make embroidery samples Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsJanuary 27, 2025 ago
Pearl Embroidery - an embroidered white mitre on display at the museum.
14th century

Pearl Embroidery: the Mitre of Sainte-Chapelle, Paris

Last week, we looked at the mitre of St Isidoro, with beautiful pearl embroidery, dating to the second quarter of the 14th century. Today’s mitre with pearl embroidery is slightly younger, dating to the last quarter of the 14th century, and was likely made in Paris. It was once housed Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsJanuary 13, 2025 ago
Pearl Embroidery - a blue pearl-embroidered mitre on display in a museum.
14th century

Pearl Embroidery: the Mitre of Saint Isodoro, Bologna, Italy

The Saint Stefano church, one of the churches of the seven-churches complex in Bologna, houses a spectacular mitre with pearl embroidery from the second quarter of the 14th century. The iconography is not your average Christian fare, featuring dragons, birds, and lion masks amid foliage. It is, in fact, so Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsJanuary 6, 2025 ago

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Medieval Splendour in Gold thread & Silk

The Acupictrix, alias Dr Jessica Grimm, writes a weekly blog on medieval goldwork embroidery.

Dr Jessica Grimm is a member of Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Ancienes (CIETA), Bundesverband Kunsthandwerk and S.E.W.

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