Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
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Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm

Opus anglicanum - an embroidered multi-coloured cope on display in a museum.
14th century

Opus anglicanum: the early 14th-century Bologna Cope

Last year, I spent many delightful hours studying the Bologna Cope at the Museo Civico Medievale in Bologna, Italy. This Opus anglicanum cope was made in England between AD 1310 and 1320. The cope was also displayed at the epic Opus anglicanum exhibition in the V&A in 2016/2017. Although the Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsMarch 10, 2025 ago
Opus anglicanum - an example of a face stitched in fine directional split stitch.
13th century

Opus anglicanum: the late 13th-century Vatican Cope

Several Italian museums hold Opus anglicanum embroidered vestments. On the one hand, this is a testament to the popularity of Opus anglicanum among European clergy in the 13th and 14th centuries. However, it was also the result of the Italians remaining Catholic while England underwent the destruction of the Reformation. Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsMarch 3, 2025 ago
Pearl Embroidery - an embroidered white mitre on display at the museum.
14th century

The mitre of Sainte Chapelle: What stitch is it?

Identifying an embroidery stitch correctly on a historic piece is not always easy. As inspecting the back for correct identification is often necessary, historic embroideries can be challenging. Either the back cannot be checked due to a lining or is displayed, so it is inaccessible. The solution? Make embroidery samples Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsJanuary 27, 2025 ago
Pearl Embroidery - an embroidered white mitre on display at the museum.
14th century

Pearl Embroidery: the Mitre of Sainte-Chapelle, Paris

Last week, we looked at the mitre of St Isidoro, with beautiful pearl embroidery, dating to the second quarter of the 14th century. Today’s mitre with pearl embroidery is slightly younger, dating to the last quarter of the 14th century, and was likely made in Paris. It was once housed Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsJanuary 13, 2025 ago
Pearl Embroidery - a blue pearl-embroidered mitre on display in a museum.
14th century

Pearl Embroidery: the Mitre of Saint Isodoro, Bologna, Italy

The Saint Stefano church, one of the churches of the seven-churches complex in Bologna, houses a spectacular mitre with pearl embroidery from the second quarter of the 14th century. The iconography is not your average Christian fare, featuring dragons, birds, and lion masks amid foliage. It is, in fact, so Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 yearsJanuary 6, 2025 ago
Domschatz Fritzlar - a green chasuble with an embroidered cross
15th century

Domschatz Fritzlar – locally made Medieval embroidery

Late last year, I visited the Domschatz Fritzlar. This is a small museum with several embroidered medieval textiles on display, which you can photograph as long as you don’t use flash. The textiles are extremely well-lit and very close to the display case glass. This means that you can examine them Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 3 yearsFebruary 5, 2024 ago
Grandson Antependium - religious gold embroidery on red antependium
14th century

Grandson Antependium: Opus anglicanum meets Opus ciprense

The 14th-century Grandson Antependium is a pretty mix of embroidery techniques, styles, languages and geographical areas. It is one of only three surviving pieces of Opus ciprense embroidery in the world. Another famous antependium in this embroidery style is held at the Cathedral Museum in Pisa, Italy. Let’s explore! The Grandson Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 3 yearsSeptember 11, 2023 ago
Book review - book cover
Uncategorized

Book review: The embroidered altarpiece from El Burgo de Osma

Maybe this book review should come with a warning that you’ll likely spend money after reading it… The Abegg-Stiftung has published a new book. In English this time! Some years ago, they conserved the altarpiece from El Burgo de Osma, and the new book describes in incredible detail what they have found Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 4 yearsMarch 20, 2023 ago
Golden tubes - black and white picture of archaeological grave goods
5th century

More on the little golden tubes used in 12th-century Palermo

A couple of weeks ago, I showed you a curious piece of 12th-century goldwork embroidery from Palermo, Sicily. It was made by sewing down golden tubes and then flattening them. In the meantime, I was able to find a bit more information on the embroidery. These golden tubes are not as rare Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 4 yearsFebruary 27, 2023 ago
Imperial Regalia - Blue tunic with a red seam
12th century

Imperial Regalia: The Complete Emperor’s Clothes

Although my library of books on medieval (goldwork) embroidery is filling more and more IVAR shelves, I still don’t have everything :). Hunting publications down is a slow process. There’s no central institution or website shouting new releases from the rooftop. Finding older publications often happens by reading through the Read more

By Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm, 4 yearsFebruary 6, 2023 ago

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Medieval Splendour in Gold thread & Silk

The Acupictrix, alias Dr Jessica Grimm, writes a weekly blog on medieval goldwork embroidery.

Dr Jessica Grimm is a member of Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Ancienes (CIETA), Bundesverband Kunsthandwerk and S.E.W.

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