When and where did the use of gold threads in embroidery start? The discovery of gold threads in archaeological excavations could help answer that question. However, gold threads are also often used in (tablet) weaving. So, gold threads in an excavation equal the presence of goldwork embroidery is a bit of a leap. Recently, I visited the sites of two archaeological digs that yielded these threads. What can they tell us about the start of the use of gold threads in goldwork embroidery?
First up is the modern cemetery at Herrsching, about 60 km from where I live. When the municipality opened and extended the current cemetery, they found the remains of a Roman bath house and a 7th-century (Early Medieval) church with accompanying graves. The large stone rectangle in front of the church marks the grave of three men buried at the same time (around 670 AD) and aged between 20 and 60. At least one died in battle. The grave also contained metal threads that were once part of their clothing. You can see a picture of the gold threads on this website.
The other archaeological site we visited is located in Austria. The village of Hallstatt is world-famous as the type site for the Early Iron Age (c. 800-400 BC). People mined salt here since the Bronze Age. The mines themselves have preserved countless organic artefacts. However, the Early Iron Age cemetery, high up the mountain above modern-day Hallstatt, yielded thousands of rich grave goods. In one of the museum’s display cases was a coil of gold thread. I think the organic core has gone, but the wraps of gold foil are clearly visible. Unfortunately, there was no information other than the inventory number. However, the fact that the gold thread hasn’t tarnished over the past 2500-2900 years indicates that it is pure gold with minimal silver content.
I have ordered several books and references from the library to dive into the topic some more. Frustratingly, when the gold threads have been used for weaving, the texts will say so. Embroidery is rarely called just that. Instead, the gold threads were sewn on or appliqued. This hampers a quick search tremendously. With a bit of luck, I will have more information on these gold threads in next week’s blog post!
If you like learning more about goldwork embroidery and gold threads being found at archaeological digs, check out my blog posts on the finds at Speyer Cathedral, Villach-Judendorf and the mysterious golden tubes used in embroidery and the making of hair nets.
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