Cartoon of a medieval lady embroidering.

Acupictrix – Dr Jessica Grimm

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Cartoon of a medieval lady embroidering Medieval Goldwork Embroidery.

Medieval Splendour in gold thread and silk

The Acupictrix, alias Dr Jessica Grimm, writes a weekly blog on medieval goldwork embroidery and related topics.

Dr Jessica Grimm is a member of Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Ancienes (CIETA), Bundesverband Kunsthandwerk, MEDATS and S.E.W.

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Blog categories

  • Geography
    • England
    • France
    • Germany
    • Italy
    • Low Countries
    • Uzbekistan
  • Medieval Embroiderers
  • Opus
    • Opus anglicanum
    • Opus cyprense
    • Opus florentinum
    • Opus romanum
  • Period
    • 11th century
    • 12th century
    • 13th century
    • 14th century
    • 15th century
    • 16th century
    • 18th century
  • Review
    • Books
    • Embroidery Tools
  • Tutorial
  • Uncategorized

Featured

  • Book Review - Ecclesiastical Embroidery by Heather Lewis

    Book Review: Ecclesiastical Embroidery Techniques & Projects

  • Medieval Goldwork Embroidery - Antependium with arbor vitae crucifixion

    Medieval Goldwork Embroidery in Anagni, Italy

  • Opus romanum - Antependium Anagni Cathedral, Italy

    Opus Romanum: medieval goldwork embroidery from Rome?

  • 15th century, 16th century, Low Countries

    Mass-produced medieval goldwork embroidery: The Adoration of the Magi

    If you have followed this blog for a while, you already know that medieval goldwork embroidery was mass-produced. The designs were used more than once, sometimes even on the same vestment. Survived have mainly the simpler single-figure orphreys or the, possibly block-printed, naive embroidered scenes from Germany. But… Read More

  • Goldwork orphrey on a red vestment.
    16th century, Low Countries

    Late medieval vestments in the St Nicolai Church in Kalkar, part II

    Last week, I wrote about the embroidered late medieval vestments on display in the St Nicolai Church in Kalkar. We looked in depth at the richly embroidered chasuble donated by Wolter van Riswick in AD 1530. This week, we’ll examine a splendidly embroidered cope and dalmatic, also kept… Read More

  • 16th century, Low Countries

    Late Medieval Vestments in the St. Nicolai Church in Kalkar, part I

    Last year, I visited the St Nicolai Church in Kalkar. The church inventory lists more than 100 medieval vestments in AD 1543. Read More

  • Finished geometric embroidery sample (5 x 5 cm)
    14th century, England, Opus anglicanum, Tutorial

    Tutorial: Underside Couching versus Brick Stitch

    Last week, I discussed some Opus anglicanum pieces that show underside couched silk worked in a brick pattern. I wondered what the benefits were of using underside couching instead of traditional brick stitch. As I had done underside couching with a metal thread before, I imagined that underside couching with… Read More

  • Coronation of the Virgin on the Syon cope (83-1864) in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London.
    14th century, England, Opus anglicanum

    The Syon Cope: underside couched silk in Opus anglicanum

    While researching the grave finds of some of these bishops and kings, I also came across other small embroidered pieces that piqued my curiosity. When we think of Opus anglicanum, we think of underside couched gold threads. However, the embroiderers also underside couched silk. The most famous example is… Read More

  • Fragment of the stockings found in the grave of Bishop Walter de Cantilupe of Worcester (AD 1195-1266), Inv. Nr. 1380-1901, © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
    13th century, England, Opus anglicanum

    The Bishop’s Stockings (buskins/caligae) part II

    Last week, we looked at three pairs of stockings from two kings and a bishop. The oldest pair dated to the 11th century, and the other two were from the late 12th century. This week, we will look at the grave finds of three bishops who lived in… Read More

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Acupictrix – Dr Jessica Grimm

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Copyright Dr Jessica M. Grimm – Mandlweg 3, 82488 Ettal, Germany

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