Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
The home of Medieval Goldwork Embroidery!
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Fragment of the stockings found in the grave of Bishop Walter de Cantilupe of Worcester (AD 1195-1266), Inv. Nr. 1380-1901, © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
13th century

The Bishop’s Stockings (buskins/caligae) part II

Last week, we looked at three pairs of stockings from two kings and a bishop. The oldest pair dated to the 11th century, and the other two were from the late 12th century. This week, we will look at the grave finds of three bishops who lived in the 13th Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year16. September 2024 ago
11th century

The Bishop’s Stockings (buskins/caligae) part I

When I was updating my database on medieval goldwork embroidery, I came across beautifully embroidered ceremonial stockings. The use of these stockings ended after the Second Vatican Council in 1962.  Bishops, but also some male nobility, were laid to rest in them. They are often the best-preserved part of the Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year9. September 2024 ago
Life of Mary - Diocesan Museum Brixen
15th century

The Life of Mary: It’s all in the details

This blog post is taking way longer to write than I intended. Sorry, I fell down a rabbit hole. And then another one :). I will find myself in both holes in the state library in Munich on Friday. What happened? As always, I think I have seen the same Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year2. July 2024 ago
Life of Mary - Detail of the Visitation, Chasuble cross Te 154, Kulturhistorisches Museum Magdeburg.
15th century

The Life of Mary in medieval Goldwork Embroidery

Last week, Sabine Ullrich, curator of the Kulturhistorisches Museum Magdeburg, invited me to view a chasuble cross in storage. To my delight, Sabine came up with a few additional pieces for me to study. While there are currently no medieval embroideries on display in the museum, textile enthusiasts should visit as there are beautiful late-medieval and Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year24. June 2024 ago
Medieval Embroidery - Detail embroidered chasuble made around AD 1500, Middle Rhine Area, Inv. Nr. T00358, Dommuseum Mainz
16th century

Medieval Embroidery reminiscent of the Art of Anne Geddes

Let’s delve into the fascinating world of a unique embroidery crafted around AD 1500 in the Middle Rhine Area. This medieval embroidery masterpiece, housed at the Dommuseum Mainz, is a testament to local artistry. Its iconography is truly one-of-a-kind. It’s reminiscent of the whimsical art photographs by Anne Geddes, but instead of Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 years3. June 2024 ago
Censer swinging angel on the back of chasuble 1212.BL115 Cathedral Traesury Le Puy-en-Velay, France
Belgium

Le Puy-en-Velay: the Cougard-Fruman Collection

After a successful week of teaching for Creative Experiences in Les Carroz, France, I decided to drive a further 330 km to visit Le Puy-en-Velay. The Cathedral Treasury houses the Cougard-Fruman textile collection. Judging from the catalogue, the collection comprises around 180 pieces. Most of it is liturgical textiles. And Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 years29. April 2024 ago
Exhibition catalogue: Fashion for God
Books

Book Review: Fashion for God, exhibition catalogue

Before I share my thoughts on the catalogue “Fashion for God”, accompanying the latest textile exhibition at Museum Catharijneconvent, I have some lovely announcements. Firstly, I have been re-invited to join the International Festival of Goldwork and Jewelery in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. Two years ago, I sadly couldn’t honour the invitation as I Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 years8. April 2024 ago
Embroidered Recreation - Orphrey Panel "Angel Choir"
15th century

Embroidered recreation of the “Angel Choir” finished

My embroidered recreation of the ‘Angel Choir’ is finished. It is based on a chasuble cross fragment kept at the Bayerische Nationalmuseum in Munich. The fragment is part of a much larger group of embroideries showing the life of Mary and Jesus. There is evidence that these mass-produced embroideries were made with Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 years25. March 2024 ago
Stitch Tutorial - Detail Dalmatic (Nativity) of the Schlosser Ornat, Inv. Nr. 124 I-III, Dommuseum Frankfurt.
15th century

Stitch Tutorial: a Dutch column made in Cologne?

When I started work on this week’s stitch tutorial, I had the growing feeling that things weren’t quite what they seemed at first. That’s the great thing about doing research. I usually have no idea where the medieval embroideries will lead me. Dead ends are common. But so are those Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 years18. March 2024 ago
Mary with Child on the chasuble of the Schlosser Ornat, Inv. Nr. 124 I-III, Dommuseum Frankfurt.
15th century

Do we collectively lose embroidery techniques and standards?

Not sure how many of you studied last week’s pictures of the Schlosser set of vestments, focusing on the embroidery techniques used. If you did, you might have spotted the same oddities as I did. For starters, there’s the ‘enhancement’ of the faces with oil paint. Not an unusual practice. The Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 2 years11. March 2024 ago

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Medieval Splendour in gold thread and silk

The Acupictrix, alias Dr Jessica Grimm, writes a weekly blog on medieval goldwork embroidery and related topics.

Dr Jessica Grimm is a member of Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Ancienes (CIETA), Bundesverband Kunsthandwerk, and S.E.W.

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