Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
The home of Medieval Goldwork Embroidery!
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15th century

Medieval Goldwork from Tuscany: Pope Nicholas V vestments

This month, we will examine medieval goldwork from Tuscany, Italy. I was fortunate enough to see many of these pieces when they were exhibited at Castello Buonconsiglio in 2019. The series of blog posts is also in preparation for a trip to Tuscany that my husband and I hope to Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 11 months3. February 2025 ago
Pearl-embroidered mitre made by Hans Plock, c. AD 1514, Halle, Germany
16th century

Pearl-embroidered mitre made by Hans Plock (c. AD 1514)

Last week and the week before, we looked at beautifully pearl-embroidered mitres from Italy and France. Today, we will look at probably the most spectacular pearl-embroidered mitre of them all: the mitre made by Hans Plock for Cardinal Albert of Brandenburg in AD 1514 in Halle, Germany. The piece is Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 11 months20. January 2025 ago
Pearl-embroidered mitre from Sainte-Chapelle showing the Nativity.
14th century

Pearl-embroidered mitre of Sainte-Chapelle, Paris (France)

Last week, we looked at the pearl-embroidered mitre of St Isidoro, which dates to the second quarter of the 14th-century. Today’s pearl-embroidered mitre is slightly younger and dates to the last quarter of the 14th-century and was likely made in Paris. It was once housed in Sainte-Chapelle, the 13th-century royal Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 11 months13. January 2025 ago
Pearl-embroidered mitre from the 14th century,
14th century

Pearl-embroidered mitre of Saint Isidoro, Bologna (Italy)

The Saint Stefano church, one of the churches of the seven-churches complex in Bologna, houses a spectacular pearl-embroidered mitre from the second quarter of the 14th century. The iconography is not your average Christian fare with dragons, birds, and lion masks amidst foliage. It is, in fact, so rare that Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 12 months6. January 2025 ago
Back of the DePrez chasuble kept at Aosta Cathedral, Italy.
15th century

Aosta Cathedral, Italy: A 15th century embroidered chasuble

By now, you probably know that chasing embroidered medieval vestments is kinda my thing :). Although I am fortunate enough to be able to travel regularly, a lot of my research happens behind a computer screen. Trailing through publications, especially the literature references, is how I find new-to-me pieces. And Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year17. December 2024 ago
Opus anglicanum embroidery showing St Nicholas being crowned bishop.
13th century

Opus anglicanum: St Nicholas Dalmatic

A couple of weeks ago, I was fortunate enough to finally visit the Cathedral Treasury of Anagni near Rome, Italy. The treasury houses several pieces of Opus anglicanum, not only the namesake cope. One of these pieces is the chasuble, which you can see below. However, this vestment started life Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year9. December 2024 ago
15th century

Mass-produced medieval goldwork embroidery: The Adoration of the Magi

If you have followed this blog for a while, you already know that medieval goldwork embroidery was mass-produced. The designs were used more than once, sometimes even on the same vestment. Survived have mainly the simpler single-figure orphreys or the, possibly block-printed, naive embroidered scenes from Germany. But that’s not Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year11. November 2024 ago
Goldwork orphrey on a red vestment.
16th century

Late medieval vestments in the St Nicolai Church in Kalkar, part II

Last week, I wrote about the embroidered late medieval vestments on display in the St Nicolai Church in Kalkar. We looked in depth at the richly embroidered chasuble donated by Wolter van Riswick in AD 1530. This week, we’ll examine a splendidly embroidered cope and dalmatic, also kept in the Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year14. October 2024 ago
16th century

Late Medieval Vestments in the St. Nicolai Church in Kalkar, part I

Last year, I visited the St Nicolai Church in Kalkar. The church inventory lists more than 100 medieval vestments in AD 1543.

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year8. October 2024 ago
Coronation of the Virgin on the Syon cope (83-1864) in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London.
14th century

The Syon Cope: underside couched silk in Opus anglicanum

While researching the grave finds of some of these bishops and kings, I also came across other small embroidered pieces that piqued my curiosity. When we think of Opus anglicanum, we think of underside couched gold threads. However, the embroiderers also underside couched silk. The most famous example is the Syon cope. Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year23. September 2024 ago

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Medieval Splendour in gold thread and silk

The Acupictrix, alias Dr Jessica Grimm, writes a weekly blog on medieval goldwork embroidery and related topics.

Dr Jessica Grimm is a member of Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Ancienes (CIETA), Bundesverband Kunsthandwerk, and S.E.W.

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