Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
The home of Medieval Goldwork Embroidery!
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September 2024

Finished geometric embroidery sample (5 x 5 cm)
14th century

Tutorial: Underside Couching versus Brick Stitch

Last week, I discussed some Opus anglicanum pieces that show underside couched silk worked in a brick pattern. I wondered what the benefits were of using underside couching instead of traditional brick stitch. As I had done underside couching with a metal thread before, I imagined that underside couching with silk would Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year30. September 2024 ago
Coronation of the Virgin on the Syon cope (83-1864) in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London.
14th century

The Syon Cope: underside couched silk in Opus anglicanum

While researching the grave finds of some of these bishops and kings, I also came across other small embroidered pieces that piqued my curiosity. When we think of Opus anglicanum, we think of underside couched gold threads. However, the embroiderers also underside couched silk. The most famous example is the Syon cope. Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year23. September 2024 ago
Fragment of the stockings found in the grave of Bishop Walter de Cantilupe of Worcester (AD 1195-1266), Inv. Nr. 1380-1901, © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
13th century

The Bishop’s Stockings (buskins/caligae) part II

Last week, we looked at three pairs of stockings from two kings and a bishop. The oldest pair dated to the 11th century, and the other two were from the late 12th century. This week, we will look at the grave finds of three bishops who lived in the 13th Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year16. September 2024 ago
11th century

The Bishop’s Stockings (buskins/caligae) part I

When I was updating my database on medieval goldwork embroidery, I came across beautifully embroidered ceremonial stockings. The use of these stockings ended after the Second Vatican Council in 1962.  Bishops, but also some male nobility, were laid to rest in them. They are often the best-preserved part of the Read more

By Dr Jessica Grimm, 1 year9. September 2024 ago

Medieval Splendour in gold thread and silk

The Acupictrix, alias Dr Jessica Grimm, writes a weekly blog on medieval goldwork embroidery and related topics.

Dr Jessica Grimm is a member of Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Ancienes (CIETA), Bundesverband Kunsthandwerk, and S.E.W.

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