Tag: Goldwork


  • Opus anglicanum: the early 14th century Bologna Cope

    Last year, I spent many delightful hours studying the Bologna Cope at the Museo Civico Medievale in Bologna, Italy. This Opus anglicanum cope was made in England between AD 1310 and 1320. The cope was also displayed at the epic Opus anglicanum exhibition in the V&A in 2016/2017. Although the cope is missing its hood,…

  • Opus anglicanum: the late 13th century Vatican Cope

    Several Italian museums hold Opus anglicanum embroidered vestments. On the one hand, this is a testament to Opus anglicanum being hugely popular with European clergy in the 13th and 14th centuries. However, it was also the result of the Italians remaining Catholic and England going through the destructions of the Reformation. Some of these splendidly…

  • Goldwork Tutorial: Padded Brick Couching inspired by Tuscany

    This goldwork tutorial shows you how to make a simple padded background for your goldwork or stumpwork embroidery. We saw this technique on the cope hood from Tuscany made in the first quarter of the 16th century. The method produces a nicely textured and firm background. It would look lovely with a stumpwork flower, butterfly…

  • Medieval Goldwork from Tuscany: stunning orphreys

    We continue our exploration of medieval goldwork from Tuscany with a couple of stunning orphreys. One is kept in a museum, one in a Cathedral, and the third is in a private collection. In 2019, they were displayed side by side in Castello Buonconsiglio. All three are of exceptional quality, both in design and embroidery…

  • Medieval Goldwork from Tuscany: Pope Nicholas V vestments

    This month, we will examine medieval goldwork from Tuscany, Italy. I was fortunate enough to see many of these pieces when they were exhibited at Castello Buonconsiglio in 2019. The series of blog posts is also in preparation for a trip to Tuscany that my husband and I hope to make next month. We’ll kick…

  • Which embroidery stitch is it? Stitch identification.

    Identifying an embroidery stitch correctly on a historic piece is not always easy. As inspecting the back for correct identification is often necessary, historic embroideries can be challenging. Either the back cannot be checked due to a lining or is displayed, so it is inaccessible. The solution? Make embroidery samples and compare them with the…

  • Pearl-embroidered mitre made by Hans Plock (c. AD 1514)

    Last week and the week before, we looked at beautifully pearl-embroidered mitres from Italy and France. Today, we will look at probably the most spectacular pearl-embroidered mitre of them all: the mitre made by Hans Plock for Cardinal Albert of Brandenburg in AD 1514 in Halle, Germany. The piece is permanently displayed at the Rüstkammer…

  • Pearl-embroidered mitre of Sainte-Chapelle, Paris (France)

    Last week, we looked at the pearl-embroidered mitre of St Isidoro, which dates to the second quarter of the 14th-century. Today’s pearl-embroidered mitre is slightly younger and dates to the last quarter of the 14th-century and was likely made in Paris. It was once housed in Sainte-Chapelle, the 13th-century royal chapel in the heart of…

  • Pearl-embroidered mitre of Saint Isidoro, Bologna (Italy)

    The Saint Stefano church, one of the churches of the seven-churches complex in Bologna, houses a spectacular pearl-embroidered mitre from the second quarter of the 14th century. The iconography is not your average Christian fare with dragons, birds, and lion masks amidst foliage. It is, in fact, so rare that no comparable pieces are known.…

  • Aosta Cathedral, Italy: A 15th century embroidered chasuble

    By now, you probably know that chasing embroidered medieval vestments is kinda my thing :). Although I am fortunate enough to be able to travel regularly, a lot of my research happens behind a computer screen. Trailing through publications, especially the literature references, is how I find new-to-me pieces. And related information to these pieces.…