In this embroidery workshop, we‘ll dive into the world of Opus anglicanum, a famous style of embroidery practised in England and, indeed, the rest of Europe in the 12th to the 15th centuries. This style, known for its intricate designs and use of very fine directional split stitch and underside couched gold thread, was highly prized and often used in ecclesiastical garments and other high-status textiles. The workshop design has been adapted from an orphrey kept at the Museum Mayer van den Bergh, Antwerp, Belgium. The original was made c. 1340-1360 in London, England. The finished embroidery measures c. 12.5 x 10.5 cm.

The materials used in this embroidery workshop are appropriate for the medieval period. You will work with Chinese flat silks and gilt passing thread. The embroidery fabric consists of a layer of silk twill backed with a layer of fine linen. You will transfer the design using the prick-and-pounce method with iron gall ink and a fine paintbrush. Just like your medieval counterpart, you will work with a slate frame. This frees up both hands for embroidery.

During the embroidery workshop, you will learn to dress a professional slate frame, transfer the pattern onto your fabric, work directional split stitch in silk, and underside couch your passing thread in a simple chevron pattern. These techniques are surface embroidery rather than counted thread work. As the work is very fine, you will need to be able to thread a #10 embroidery needle. Magnifying lamps will be available in the classroom to ensure you have the best possible view of your work.

Please bring fine embroidery scissors, pins, sewing thread (in any colour), something to write with, and extra magnification when needed. You can also bring pounce, pounce pad, pricker, iron gall ink and a fine brush, should you already have them. The workshop fee is €288 when you already own a 12-inch slate frame. It includes two days of tuition from 10:00 to 16:00, needles, silks, fabrics, gold thread, written instructions, and materials for framing up and transferring the design. If you don’t own a slate frame, you can purchase one from me for €130. It is not possible to work in hand; use a hoop or any other kind of embroidery frame. Lowery stands to hold your slate frame will be available in the classroom.