We will look at a few key pieces from this period so you can compare them with the contemporary goldwork embroidery from the Low Countries, which we will discuss in lessons 4, 6 and 8. Later forms of Opus Anglicanum did not receive the scholarly attention they deserve as they were less valued (Carmignani, 2019). However, the larger part of all English embroidery is from this later period
(Heard, 2016; Hourihane, 2016). This lack of attention is reflected in the use of black-and-white photographs in the entries in the online museum catalogues. You will also see many pieces that have not even received minimal attention regarding conservation, such as properly stretching them out. This lack of appreciation may result from Late Opus Anglicanum not being exported to the Continent. Quite the contrary, ready-made orphreys from the continent were transported to England and incorporated into textiles (Hourihane, 2016).

The Chicago Art Institute (1971.312a) holds a cope that is a prime example of the change in the workflow in the embroidery workshops in the Late Medieval period. The red velvet cope body is powdered with angels, thistles, Fleur-de-Lys and double-headed eagles. These identical appliques were worked separately on linen using surface couching. This is markedly different from the imagery on the older copes described before. Although related imagery can be seen on these older copes, they are essentially one-offs.

The orphrey band on 1971.312a also shows the typical figures under arches with a golden background. However, this golden background is now worked in surface-couched diaper patterns on linen. Also, note the reduced use of colour on the orphreys. The piece was made in England around AD 1490-1517.

A chasuble cross, cope orphreys, and a cope hood are kept at the Metropolitan (11.137.7a). These also show golden backgrounds worked in surface-couched diaper patterns. These orphreys were made in England between AD 1400 and 1499. The same museum holds another chasuble (21.96), where the golden backgrounds are also surface-couched diaper patterns on linen. This chasuble was also made in England at the end of the 15th century (AD 1490-1499).

06.1199.3, also held at the Metropolitan, is currently configured as an antependium but possibly made up of parts of a cope. This piece shows the typical serial-produced appliques and the orphreys with the surface-couched diaper patterns on linen. It was made in England somewhere in the 15th or 16th century (AD 1400-1599). More linen appliques can be seen on a 15th—or 16th-century English chasuble (16.32.320) held at the Metropolitan.

The Victoria & Albert Museum holds several of these late pieces of English goldwork embroidery. Chasuble T.82-1978 shows orphreys with golden backgrounds worked in surface-couched diaper patterns on linen. Further proof of the changes in workshop workflow is the fact that the figure of the Centurion below the scene of the Crucifixion is identical to that on a chasuble held at the Abegg Stiftung (5527). The chasuble dates around AD 1460-1490 and was made in England.